Keep Your Wood Plane Useful - Sharpen It

Sharpening wood planes freehand is a handy skill and can usually be learned in about two hours. This is a technique learned from a German cabinetmaker.

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Remember: if a tool has been sharpened properly and then passed under a bright light, it will show only one glint of light off the secondary bevel. On the other hand, if a tool is sharpened poorly, the bevel will be visible over a range of angles. A different part of the bevel reflects light at each angle.

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To sharpen flat blades, such as chisels and planes:

1. Stand side-on to the stone, as if you were preparing to saw something. Flatten the back of blade and press the back down on the stone. Move the blade back and forth in a linear motion. This step shouldn't take very long if the blade has been sharpened properly at another time.

2. Just a quick note regarding this step: place the blade in the middle of the stone, not close to either end. Turn the blade over and lay the primary bevel flat on the stone. Press down using your left fingers, low on the back of the blade. This keeps the bevel on the stone.

3. Use your right middle finger and place it under the blade. At the same time, put your index finger and thumb around the right side of the blade. They should both be pretty straight. Don't grip too tightly, but do hold the blade firmly in position.

4. Plant your right elbow firmly into the top of your pelvic bone. The blade needs to remain stationary on the stone during this move. To this point, you've simply put yourself in position to hone the blade.

5. Now, you'll lift the top of the blade just about 3 to 5mm, or approximately 3/16th of an inch in order to adjust the angle of the attack of the blade in relation to that of the secondary bevel.

6. Make sure your right wrist is solidly locked with the blade in the correct position before beginning the honing process. Your wrist will remain in this position until the blade is removed from the stone.

7. To hone the blade, plant your feet on the ground, and rock your body from the ankles. The first stroke of the blade should move toward you. Remember the instruction to place the blade in the middle of the stone? This is crucial so you have the space to keep the blade flat and in contact with the stone.

8. Use one or two figure eight tracks to even out wear on the stone. One should be on either side of the stone. This will result in a good edge. Five to ten strokes should be enough. To see that the blade is honed evenly, check the reflection from the second bevel.

9. With very light pressure, remove the wire edge from the blade by once again flattening the back of the blade. Gently re-hone the secondary bevel. The wire edge should be gone after repeating this process a few times.

10. ALWAYS strop the blade. The safest way to do this is with a piece of western red cedar soaked in oil, a soft razor strop or a felt wheel (carvers use them). Stropping is the process by which you pull the edge backwards across a stropping medium, which re-forms the edge after removing the wire edge. If the blade pares fibers from the end grain of a piece of pine without signs of marks or tearing, you have a properly sharpened blade.

Keep Your Wood Plane Useful - Sharpen It

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Knife Sharpening Experts - Forged Knives Vs Stamped Knives

We all agree. If a knife isn't sharp, what's the use, right? The sharpness of the blade will make all the difference in the world. And sharpness is largely dependant upon the quality of the blade material from which the knife is made. You'll need to determine whether or not to get a forged knife or a stamped knife. Let's make it clear.

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Stamped Knives. Stamped knives are stamped out of, or cut from, sheets of metal using a template of predetermined size and shape. This process is called precision machining. As most of these stamped knives are generally flat and thin, the process is done quite quickly. But because they are so thin, they aren't that dense and do not hold their edges very long. Unfortunately, this means more frequent sharpening is required by stamped knives than forged knives. As a matter of fact, some stamped knives sets claim that you needn't ever sharpen them. They'll stay sharp for a lifetime, the package will say. Please, don't believe that. All things change over time, including the sharpness of a knife's edge.

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The blade of a stamped knife is usually fitted and fastened onto its handle and is not, therefore, thought of as a solid piece of metal. A loose handle could easily result in your having to throw the knife away. Such a waste. It's good to know that not all stamped handles are this way. Some stamped knives have handles that are fitted over the tang.

Stamped knives are also lighter, and have less balance, than forged knives. So you'll have to grip it fairly tightly and have to use much more pressure whenever you use them. Doing so will increase risk of injury.

Advantages: Fairly inexpensive. Lighter in weight.

Disadvantages: Usually unreliable handles. Requires more force, more ork from the user. Increased risk of injury during strenuous jobs. Poorly balanced. Needs frequent sharpening.

Forged Knives. Forged knives are not stamped. They are carefully made with great attention to detail. Steel is heated to extreme temperatures and set in a mold. It is than hammered out to form the blade. As a result, forged knives are denser and heavier than stamped knives and have better balance because of it. And while their tempering process results in a blade of extreme hardness, it is also more flexible. It usually has a nice thick bolster with a tang that is enclosed by the handle and is usually secured with three rivets.

Advantages: Much better balance. More weightier and so is more maneuverable. Metal is stronger and can last many years. Requires less sharpening. Less risk of injury as less work is required from the user. Solid bolster to increase safety. Secured, durable handles.

Disadvantage: Costs more. Weightier. Critical Point. Maybe 10 years ago all of the above would be undisputed. Not so today. There is quite a bit of dissent about the quality of stamped knives and whether or not they rival the quality of forged knives. Here are the popular points:

Some stamped knives are made with a high quality steel to begin with.

Some knives are stamped initially and then followed up with a forging process.

Today's manufacturing process (especially involving heat) can produce stamped knives that are just as good as forged knives, if not better.

Just as good as forged knives, if not better. That's quite amazing. Here's another critical point:

Many prefer a forged knife because of its weight distribution, the resultant ease of maneuverability and the comfort and safety of the bolster.

What's it to be then? It seems fairly easy to decide. If you'd like some strong, long-lasting knives, get forged knives. If you'd like something fairly disposable that you'd prefer not to have to maintain, get stamped knives.

But if you've got the time, the means and the desire, shop around. There are high quality stamped knives out there now. Some have good weight on them, too. They're relatively young on the market, so you're going to have to track them down.

July 2008

Knife Sharpening Experts - Forged Knives Vs Stamped Knives

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What is a Chainsaw Sharpener?

You must expect any tool that cuts or saws to become dull eventually. This is the case with chain saws as well. If you use your chainsaw frequently you are more likely to notice it is becoming dull. As soon as you notice a difference in cutting ability or a change in the wood chip output you will need to have it sharpened. Be especially careful if you do not use your chain saw frequently, it may be more difficult to notice your saw is dull. A dull chainsaw is much more likely to cause incident or accidents.

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So how do you sharpen a dull chain saw? With a chain saw sharpener of course!

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What is a Chain Saw Sharpener?

A chain saw sharpener is a machine that sharpens the individual teeth of your chainsaw. They come in a variety of styles from hand held files manual files, attachments for a small drilling tool like a Dremel, to a self contained unit that attaches to a workbench.

Your sharpening machine is comprised of two main components. One component holds on to the chain, and the other part sharpens it. These parts will differ depending on which model or type of chain saw sharpener you own. Some have small grinding bits and others have full grinding wheels.

There is a wide range of grinding wheels and they are proportionate to the size of the chainsaw sharpener you are using. When the chain, which is held in place by a securing lever, is ready to be sharpened the grinding wheel is lowered on to the edge of the tooth. If you are using a dremel tip it will not be secured in such a way but a piece is provided to keep the angle you are sharpening correct.

So basically on a little bit larger scale it is the same process you see any good chef go through with a knife. You grind the teeth of the chain back to a point using a grinding wheel. A chain saw being a little larger than a chef's knife it is mounted and run by electricity, but the idea is the same.

What is a Chainsaw Sharpener?

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How to Build Your Own Kegerator

If you like the idea of enjoying cold draft beer in the comfort of your own home, but buying a new kegerator is not in your budget, don't despair. For a fraction of the cost of a new kegerator, you can build your own. Building your own kegerator can be accomplished some with basic household tools, and just a minor amount of do-it-yourself skills. On a do-it-yourself difficulty scale of 1 to 10, this job is about a 2. Your homemade kegerator can easily be completed in about an hour.

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The first thing you need to do is get a refrigerator. Used refrigerators can often be found for little or no cost. Depending upon how much room you have for your kegerator, and how much beer you'd like it to hold, you could either go with an upright (kitchen style) refrigerator, or a mini fridge. Obviously, an upright will provide you more space for beer, other drinks, mixers, food, and ice. The benefits of the mini fridge style are space savings and energy savings. If you choose to go with a mini fridge, measure the interior dimensions of the unit to make sure it is big enough to hold a keg with a coupler on top of it, and a 5 or 10lb CO2 bottle with pressure regulator. Some mini fridges are too small to be used as kegerators. Below are the dimensions of commonly used kegs:

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Beverage, or Cornelius Keg: (popular among home brewers) 25" tall, 8.5" diameter - holds 53 12oz servings of beer 1/6 Barrel: 23.3" tall, 9.25" diameter - holds 55 servings 1/4 Barrel, or pony keg: (comes in two sizes) Short measures 14.8" tall by 17" diameter. Slim measures 23.3" tall by 11". - Both hold 82 beers. 1/2 Barrel: 23.3" tall, 17" diameter - serves 165 12oz beers.

Once you've selected the appropriate refrigerator, you'll need to choose your kegerator kit. All of the parts included in these kits can be purchased separately, but we highly recommend using a kegerator kit, rather than buying individual parts. First of all, the kits generally save you a few dollars, and secondly you'll have everything you need, and it will all be compatible. As an extra bonus, most kits come with detailed instructions specific to building a kegerator using the parts enclosed, as well as any necessary specialty tools. When choosing your kegerator kit, you'll need to decide how many taps you want (i.e. how many different types of beer you want to serve at once) and if you want a basic kit, or one with more bells and whistles.

Next, assemble the tools necessary to build your kegerator. Even though the kegerator kits typically include any specialty tools that are needed, you will need a few basic household tools. You'll need the following tools to complete the job:

Electric Drill 1/8" drill bit 1", 2" and 3" hole saws Flat and Philips head screwdrivers Needle nose pliers Adjustable wrench Level

Now that you have everything you need for your home made kegerator, it's time to get to work. Remove all of the shelves from the refrigerator and thoroughly clean the inside. Check the floor of the refrigerator for level. If it is not, you need to build up the floor to make it flat and level. This can easily be done with some plywood, 2x2s, and a few shims.

Drilling a hole for the tap

If you are building a mini fridge style of kegerator, you need to decide if you're going to have a top mounted, tower style tap, or are you going to mount the tap in the door. If you're building a top mounted tap, you should remove the interior plastic top panel to expose all of the coolant lines. You need to be very careful not to damage to refrigerator's coolant lines, or you will have to start over with a new fridge. If you are building an upright style of kegerator, the tap will be drilled through the door, which has no coolant lines, so this is not a concern.

If you're building an upright kegerator conversion, mark a point (or points) on the outside of the door where you would like to place the tap(s). Make sure that the spigots will be elevated enough to clear the keg and coupler, and that they are centered. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole for the shank holes. Make sure that this hole goes all the way through the door. Once you have your pilot hole, drill a 1" shank hole in the outside of the door for the faucet, using your drill and the 1" hole saw. Drill a larger 2" or 3" hole on the inside of the door, using one of the larger-bore hole saws. Fit your shank into the door with the flange against the outside, and the nut tightened onto the inside of the outer panel of the door. (The larger hole on the inside allows access so you can tighten the shank nut.) If you're building a mini fridge kegerator, do the same thing to the top of the unit, being very careful not to damage the coolant lines.

Assembly

Installing a drip tray in either kegerator style is simple. For a regular size kegerator, use the drip-tray mounting bracket to mark out the mounting holes and drill them in the door. For a tower style mini-fridge, we recommend a self-contained spill tray that is manually emptied.

We recommend that you buy a beer line cleaning kit, and thoroughly clean all the beer lines before hooking them up. Then hook up the beer and gas lines, flush them and sanitize them again. Prior to pressurizing the system, make sure that all hose clamps are tightened, that the CO2 tank is secured, and the temperature in your kegerator is between 33 and 38 degrees. After you have hooked up your keg and pressurized the system, start out at 13psi as a pressure setting, and adjust from there to achieve proper carbonation level for your beer. If the beer pours with too much head, lower the pressure. If it comes out of the tap slowly, or appears flat, raise the pressure.

The final step is to relax with a fresh draft beer, and think about all the money you saved by building your own kegerator.

How to Build Your Own Kegerator

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Black Friday Drill Doctor DA31325GF 100 Grit Sharpening Wheel 2011 Deals

Nov 21, 2011 09:08:00

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Chainsaw Safety Tips

Chainsaws can be very useful for clearing large limbs or dead trees. They are powerful handtools that can cause a great deal of damage if they are not treated with respect, however. It is important to follow all of the safety rules that are included in a chainsaw's operating guide. Users should also wear protective gear that includes safety goggles, gloves, long pants, and thickly sleeved shirts. It is possible for a chainsaw to kick back and cut into the user at any time, so the user needs to be prepared to minimize the damage if that should happen.

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Always Create a Sturdy Base

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Before beginning to cut into a piece of wood, make sure that the wood is completely stabilized. A chainsaw blade creates a pulling motion because it is rotating at such a high velocity. If the cutting surface is not entirely stable it is very possible that it will shake loose and fly toward the operator. The best way to configure the cutting surface is to brace it between two frames if it is not still attached to the tree. Limbs that are attached to the tree should be braced so that they will not whip back or fall on the person operating the saw.

Keep Chainsaw Angled Away From the Body

Never cut anything with the chainsaw blade angled toward any body part. Sometimes the blade will cut through a limb remarkably fast, which creates the possibility of the blade continuing to cut through the air in a straight line. If a leg, arm, hand or other body part is in the line of the blade it could be seriously injured very quickly. Keeping the blade angled away from the body also protects the user against possible jumps and kick backs that may occur during the cutting process. Gas powered chainsaws use quite a bit of power to drive their chains. That power is generally stronger than the average user can handle when the saw begins to work in an unexpected direction. If the user does it right, the saw should fly into thin air if it gets out of control for a moment.

Never Disengage Safety Mechanisms

Most chainsaws are equipped with several different mechanisms designed to make the tools safer. These mechanisms can become frustrating because they can get in the way of the saw's maneuverability. Never, under any circumstances, remove the safety mechanisms. Work to find a way to cut the materials without altering the saw in any way. The tool has been balanced and designed to operate at its best with the safety gear in place.

Chainsaw Safety Tips

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Black Friday Dremel 675 Lawn Mower and Garden Tool Sharpener Attachment 2011 Deals

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Sharpen the entire cutting surface of your lawn mower blade in minutes with this easy-to-use Dremel attachment. It provides the optimum angle to sharpen most walk-behind lawn mower blades for a healthy, beautiful lawn. Other garden tools such as shovels, shears, hoes and axes will also gain a new lease on life. Attaches to the Dremel MultiPro rotary tool.

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Ceramic Knife Sharpener Reviews - Which Knife Sharpener Brand Should You Choose?

When sharpening knives, stones are usually used but it is also possible to make use of a ceramic material that is very dense like that of the ceramic knife sharpener. The construction of the sharpener is much better in comparison to stones and it doesn't wear out easily as well. It is also rust resistant.

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The material used in the sharpener is glass-hard but it is still abrasive. This makes the ceramic sharpener a superior appliance. Over time, the ceramic will also darken with regular use. You have to make sure that the machine and the knife is dry before using it.

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The machines are usually in bar or rod form. Using the sharpener is easy. You have to hold the knife in one hand and the other hand on the machine. Hold the knife that you want to sharpen at a 20Ëš to 25Ëš angle and make a downward slicing motion. Some models are available in angle type and pull through. Choose the best option that works for you so that you can finish sharpening the edges quickly.

Here are the top three choices when it comes to ceramic knife sharpener:

1. MAC brand Ceramic Knife Sharpener #SR85

This sharpener has 1,200 fie grits that can work on the edges of your knife. It is boxed upon purchase and is abut 8.5 inches long. MAC knives recommend this sharpener. When it comes to beautifully sharpened kitchen blades, this is the answer to your needs. It costs under , making it a great choice for homemakers.

2. Kyocera Electric Diamond Knife Sharpener for Kyocera Ceramic Knifes

The #600 grade diamond stone is capable of taking 1/2mm off the knife blade. The grinding stone is electric powered and when you buy this product it will already come with an extra or replacement grinding stone. The sharpener is safe, user-friendly, and during sharpening, the knife is held at the right angle with the knife guide slot. The pressure is even-out during sharpening with the assist roller. It also comes with a safety cover and this is where the dust from grinding is accumulated. You will also be able to tell if the machine is turned on because of the indicator light.

3. Wusthof Ceramic Knife Sharpener

Even with little effort, you can easily attain sharp blades with the aid of the ceramic wheels. You can easily restore the edges of knives with the 20-degree angle. It also comes with a firm-grip handle and it has a wooden base.

The ceramic knife sharpener is a great choice and basically, you have two options - the manual and electric types. Obviously, the manual type is a lot cheaper in comparison to the electric option. You will have to make an informed decision. Identify what you prefer and from there, you can start shopping around.

The internet is the best place where you can find the ideal ceramic sharpener. Know your needs and set up a budget that will work for you. Check the sharpeners features first and most of all, you will have to get a matching sharpener for the knives you have at home.

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Ceramic Knife Sharpener Reviews - Which Knife Sharpener Brand Should You Choose?

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Black Friday Drill Doctor DA02105PF Left Handed Reverse Twist 3/32-Inch to 1/2-Inch Chuck for the Drill Doctor Models DD500X and DD750X only 2011 Deals

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